Jeolla - Part 1

May is a good time for workers in Korea, with two public holidays (Children’s Day and Buddha’s ‘Birthday’) arriving so close together, that with a bit of extra time-off from an understanding boss, you can stretch it out to a six-day vacation – in workaholic Korea, that’s bloody ages!

And so, this was when I had planned for my brother Eddie and his wife Sarah to come and visit Korea. I don’t think either of them had ever considered Korea as a holiday destination before, but my living here gave them an excuse to visit a corner of the world most Brits associate with either crazy dictators from Pyongyang, or eating Dog. As their host, it was my role to try and help dispel some of those myths, and also try and have a jolly good time.

Jeolla Nam-Do, or South Jeolla Province was our destination, the south-western corner of the country: an area known for its lush scenery (and wealth of islands located offshore); its agriculture and great food; and the artistic passion and radical politics of its people. Having talked to some of my students about it, Jeolla is often seen as apart from the rest of South Korea, and Jeolla’s people are probably quite happy to be seen that way too.

Joel and Sarah @ Boseong Station

Geographically, Jeolla is about as far as you can possibly travel from Seoul in mainland Korea. A 5-and-a-half hour train ride from Seoul’s Yongsan Station delivered Me, Eddie and Sarah directly to Boseong, a small town about 30 miles south of the provincial capital Gwangju. Boseong is famous for its Green Tea plantation, and this time of year is perfect to see the fields in all their green splendour. It sure felt like a long journey crossing most of the country, but thankfully the views, our packed lunch (Kimbab!), and a few rounds of travel scrabble got us through to the end. There we met my friend Joel, now an English teacher, a Gwangju-ite, and all-round Top Geeza. 

Eddie and Sarah at Boseong Tea Plantation

Boseong was undeniably very pretty, but it was rather busy, and the presence of the slightly tacky ‘Green Tea festival’ at the site – meaning market stalls, food venders and a very loud and incongruous  music stage – detracted slightly from the natural splendour. We did get some decent pictures, enjoyed a nice stroll in the sun, and finished off with some Seafood Pajeon (Korean pancake) washed down with a couple of beers, so no complaints. Sure beats work anyway.

Strange 'Man' providing music/comedy at Boseong

As usual in Korea, motel accommodation was abundant and, at less than £20 for a simple two-person room, damn cheap. A stay in a motel or hotel (what is the difference!?), even if it’s pretty basic, always feels like a treat to me anyway – I feel like I’m on a business trip or something, like an Actual Real Grown-Up. Awesome.

The next day we got a taxi from Boseong to Yeongam, the town nearest to the Wolchulsan National Park – hiking territory. The taxi cost 50,000 won, which is a bit luxurious, even in Korea, but it was a lot easier than the alternative of catching two buses, and in English money, that’s about £25 for what was a half-hour drive. With travel and accommodation this cheap, Korea you are really spoiling us!

The drive was very pretty, winding round Jeolla’s numerous mountains, farms and tiny traditional-style villages, until we arrived in (a rather sleepy) Yeongam. It took a worryingly long time to find a Motel, or even any shops or restaurants. But eventually we found a place, slung our bags and headed to Wolchulsan. 

Gureumdari Bridge at Wolchulsan, minutes before the view disappeared

Wolchulsan had been recommended to me by several friends as a really scenic hike. Sadly it looked like we chose the cloudiest day of the year to attempt it, and after we ascended a few hundred metres, the landscape around us dissolved into cloud. There was a certain serenity to being at the top of a hill and feeling like I was in The Heavens, especially as we largely had the mountain to ourselves (doubtless the weather had put off less brave/stupid hikers than us), but it was a bit of a shame to miss the view.

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Back to Yeongam for showers, a quick snooze and back out for dinner in an empty restaurant, and a few beers in an empty bar – where the hell is everyone? To be honest, I was ready to leave Yeongam the following morning – a town too big to be quaint, yet too small to be lively. The bright lights of coastal city Mokpo awaited…